Beguiling Bergen

Roaming around Bergen

Our last cruise port was Bergen, the rainiest city in Europe. Our day was cloudy, but our luck held out and we saw no rain. Our weather for this whole trip has been remarkably good, especially for a country that sees more than its share of cold and rain.

Frank sizes up a wooden sculpture

We were able to walk right off the ship and down to the old wharf area called Bryggen. We admired an impressive 3-masted ship moored along with several other ships of all descriptions, right in the harbor. The waterfront was also lined with unusual wooden sculptures, part of an international wooden art exhibit.

Typical Bryggen structures along the waterfront

The Bryggen area is a UNESCO site and tall clapboard houses faced the harbor in a charming display. Lots of interesting-looking shops, but we needed to find the Bryggen Museum where our walking tour was scheduled to begin. Unfortunately, our tour was way overbooked, and Rebecca, our young tour guide, was overwhelmed. However, we still managed to appreciate her tour and the sights of Bryggen.

Narrow passageways in Bryggen

Bergen is one of Europe’s oldest port cities, and in the 1300’s it became part of the Hanseatic League, a group of German merchants who controlled pretty much all of the trade in Northern Europe. These German men (women were not permitted) formed what was basically a German colony and lived a strange existence totally dedicated to making money.

Our guide Rebecca in one of the Assembly Rooms

Although the wooden buildings of Bryggen have burnt down numerous times, the current restorations were built using original techniques, and the medieval layout was retained. The result is a fascinating rabbit warren of narrow streets and tall skinny buildings. 

The men lived in tenements with an Assembly Room for each grouping of buildings. Because fire was a constant threat, the Assembly Rooms were the only rooms with heat. And the merchants were the only ones permitted to use the special rooms. The laws of the city said that heating devices were not allowed in private homes.  As you can imagine, they spent a lot of time in the one heated area making laws for the colony, resolving issues, and enjoying leisure time. (We assume drinking was involved.)

How could anyone throw this one
into the sea?

BTW fraternizing with women was strictly prohibited. If a couple were caught together, the woman would be thrown into the sea. And the man? Well, he would have to buy a keg of beer and share it with his mates!

Racks of drying cod

We visited an old Assembly Room and a display on Bryggen’s prime product: cod. Most of the cod was caught further north and air-dried on large wooden racks. Rebecca told us a dried cod is good for 25 years. All you need to do is reconstitute it with some water and fry it in a pan. We think we’ll stick with the fresh stuff!

Merchant's "cupboard bed"  with woman's portrait

Our last stop was the Hanseatic Museum where we got to see some of the old living arrangements. This was a very regimented kind of life, and the merchants were clearly at the top of the food chain. With no heat in most of the homes, everyone slept in weird “cupboard” beds; these were enclosed boxes in which they climbed into and closed the door (to retain body heat). An unheated room during a Norwegian winter got quite cold. The merchants slept in private rooms with fancy cupboards. One merchant bed had a portrait of a woman painted on an inside panel. Maybe it was the merchant’s wife, or someone he could fantasize about(?).

Apprentice's double occupancy bunkbeds

Life was much harder for the young apprentices who slept in cupboard beds stacked on top of each other as bunkbeds – where they slept two to a bed. The merchants were so strict that if a boy got into trouble, he had to swim in the sea alongside merchants in row boats who kept whacking him with sticks. These boys were not paupers but from middle-to-upper class families. Apparently, they were willing to endure the miserable conditions in order to have the chance to become rich.

Eating and drinking at Anne Madam Restaurant

After the tour, we ate lunch at Anne Madam (Anne figured the name was a good omen). It must have been true because the food was great, and we got to drink the excellent local beer called “Hansa” on draft. Anne even got to eat fish, cod of course, and chips. (Hopefully, it wasn’t the 25-year-old variety!) We topped off our day at an ice cream stand where we tried a famous local brand called Hennig-Olsen – delish!

More pics:

Waterfront buildings in Bryggen

Charming streets of Bergen

Hanseatic Museum

Dilly dilly!

Riding the Flam Railway

Flam Railway with cruise ship in fjord behind it

Today, our ship entered the Flam Fjord where we had a date with the famous Flam Railway, one of the world’s great train journeys and a section of “Norway in a Nutshell.”  The “Norway in a Nutshell” trip (yes, that’s what it’s called folks!) uses the train, bus, and ferry to tie together public transportation to experience some of the best sights in Norway. 

Flam Valley as seen from the Railway

The trip begins somewhere down in Oslo, and travels northward approximately 300 miles thru the mountains of Norway. Our Flam Railway segment (14 miles) began in the town of Flam where our cruise ship was docked and ended at the small mountain hamlet of Vatnahalsen, 2600 feet above.

The undulating Flamselvi River

The Flam Railway offers some of the most varied and magnificent scenery in the country. We traveled from the sea level fjord past the quaint farm houses of the Flam Valley and up into snow-covered mountains. Along the way, our train hugged a picturesque Flamselvi river as it glided past jagged canyons and racing waterfalls created by the newly melted snow. 

Waterfalls  along the Flam Railway

The sights invited shutter bugging around every bend! Luckily, we sat on the right side of the train for the most idyllic views, but the crowded train prevented any really super-duper camera results. 

Spectacular Kjosfossen Falls

The train climbed up a steep ascent of one foot for every eighteen feet forward (a 3.2 degree angle), and made a short stop at Kjosfossen Falls, a violent yet beautiful 60-foot waterfall. 

The siren in red trying to lure men into the woods

The Flam Railway people added some extra drama at the falls with ethereal Norwegian music and a real-life blonde-haired siren, dressed in flowing red garb, who emerged from the forest to sing and dance on a strategically positioned upper ledge. She represented a mythical creature from Norwegian folklore called a Huldra who had a habit of luring men into the forest to seduce them. Frank thought it was downright touristy and queer, but Anne found it enchanting.

At the Vatnahalsen railway stop

Our train ride ended up in the clouds at a place called Vatnahalsen where it was too foggy to see the surrounding countryside. Luckily, we had an indoor treat waiting for us at the Vatnahalsen Hotel: a snack of hot chocolate and yummy Norwegian waffles topped with raspberry and cream. The fog had started to lift, but it was time for us to board the train and chug our way down the mountain back to Flam.

Cheers!

We hit the all too tempting Flam souvenir shops and then topped off the day at the famous Flam brewery called “Aegir Bruggeri.” The three of us sat around the Viking-style pub for an hour or so, sampling their very good beer before heading back to the ship.

More pics:

One of many tunnels on the Flam Railway

Red-garbed Huldra

The "port" at Flam

Frank studies map of Flam

Kjosfossen Falls

On the lovely Flam Fjord

Sights like this leave us breathless (Flam Fjord)

Kathy's first taste of a beer

Sun drops lower in the sky as we leave Flam Fjord

Alluring Alesund

Art Nouveau  architecture in Alesund after The Great Fire

Anne was ready for a bit of culture, and our ship excursion in Alesund (pronounced: OL-sund) was just the thing. Alesund is known as an Art Nouveau city. It was totally rebuilt in 1904 after “The Great Fire” destroyed the entire city. Carpenters rallied from all over Norway to rebuild Alesund in the popular Art Nouveau style.  Carpentry, by the way, was in a major slump at that time -  Frank thinks maybe a disgruntled carpenter set the fire, just to get business restarted!

At the Sunnmore Open Air Museum

Our first stop was Sunnmøre Museum, a large open air museum with old buildings and boats on display in a lovely setting of forests and lakes. Our guide Gro (pronounced: Gru, and a common woman’s name in Norway) showed us small wooden houses called “church houses.” 

"Church Houses" at Sunnmore Museum
Note the sod roofs.

Alesund is spread over seven islands, and families who traveled across the fjord to attend church built these places so they could change from their working clothes into their Sunday duds. Like lots of old houses in Norway, the roofs of these buildings were covered with plants and grasses. Sod roofs were used and constructed with layers of birch bark for insulation and support. Grasses would take root on top. These sod roofs would last approximately 70 years with no leaks. Gro told us when the greenery got too wild, folks would just put a goat up there to mow the roof!  

Typical fishermen's homes at Sunnmore Museum

The museum was a lovely place with old homes and buildings scattered around the grounds and along a pretty lake. A storybook version of Norway come to life. 

Inside a family home at Sunnmore Museum

One of the family homes was open and furnished with a table and chairs, cradle, and a loom, looking like the family just stepped out for a moment. Anne couldn’t get over how good it smelled in that little house – she figured it must be ancestral memory!

Old time "church boat" provided
water taxi services on Sundays

Gro also showed us a display of boats, including a replica of a Viking ship whose remains were found nearby and a long, uncovered “church boat” used to collect people from all around the fjord to bring them to church services, like a water taxi service. 

In front of a "Shetland Bus"

Of most interest to us were the fishing boats called the “Shetland Buses.” During WWII, when Norway was occupied by the Nazis, Norwegian fishermen carried resistance fighters to safety, making the long and perilous trip (22-25 hours) to the British-owned Shetlands. Germans wouldn’t stop the fishing boats because they believed the fishermen were just earning a living and feeding their families.  It was a perfect ruse to give safe passage to anyone who wanted to get out of Norway.  Once a year, the people of Alesund reenact the voyage to honor the Shetland Buses and the brave fishermen who saved so many lives.

Gorgeous rhododendron in bloom

It is hard to believe now, but Norway used to be one of the poorest countries in the world. In the late 1800’s, 25% of the population fled the impoverished conditions by emigrating to Canada and the U.S. (primarily settling in Wisconsin and Minnesota). Then everything changed when oil was discovered in the Barents Sea (circa 1969). Suddenly, Norway became one of the richest countries in the world! And you have to admire the way they handled it. In contrast to many Middle Eastern countries for example, the Norwegians have used the oil money to improve living conditions for all Norwegians. Taxes are about 29%, and everyone gets free, high quality healthcare along with free university tuition and generous pensions. They even have the foresight to put large amounts of the money in a national fund to prepare for the day when the oil runs out!

Stunning view of Alesund city with our
cruise ship moored in the harbor

Our second stop was the Mount Aksla Viewpoint purported to be the best view in Europe. Sounded like a lot of hype until we saw it. The breathtaking view was like something out of a fairytale with mountains and fjords, and best of all, the prettiest pastel-colored, steep-roofed houses of Alesund spread out below us. We could not stop taking pictures, and as good as the pictures are, it was impossible to capture the beauty of it.

Serenade of the Seas across Alesund Harbor

Our tour took us on a ride around town past some of the Art Nouveau buildings and up to one last viewpoint. This one overlooked the harbor, and once again, our ship seemed to dwarf everything in sight. BTW we are not the only ones who love Alesund; 176 cruise ships arrive here every year. Seems overwhelming for a city of oy 14,000 people, but Gro said the locals love welcoming visitors from around the world (and of course, tourism is big business here).

Fisherman boy stands guarding Alesund Harbor

After the tour, we walked around on our own. The harbor area was especially scenic with a canal and a statue of a fisherman boy. Fishing is still a very big industry here, particularly cod. For three months of the year, “farmer-fishermen” leave their farms to fish the cod that come here to spawn. Norway exports more salt cod than any country in the world, mainly to Brazil and Portugal for their national dish Bacalhau). They also export Omega-3 tablets made from cod oil.

Dock at Sunnmore Museum

Here’s a strange fact about Alesund. A fancy neighborhood they call Alesund’s Beverly Hills sprawls across a hillside above the town. The road to get up there is so steep, they built pipes under the streets to melt the snow and ice, so that traffic could climb the steep grade. Gro told us they can clear the  snow-covered road in minutes.  Another fact is that Norway was the first country to give voting rights to women (1913).

Exploring the Arctic in Tromso

Fjord near Tromso

Before we begin, today is the 7^th of June, and we wish to acknowledge the birthdays of both Anne’s brother Tom Gross and Chris Heithecker (member of our extended travel family and Frank’s longtime friend & co-worker).  Many more to ya, gents!

Rugged Arctic Landscape

Our second port was Tromso, the second largest city in all of Norway and the largest city in the north with a population of just 76,000 people. Tromso is actually an island situated among the many waterways in the area. The city sits on a network of underground tunnels which makes getting around easier, especially in the winter. Tunnels even travel under some of the fjords. Strangely enough, the city owes its tunnel system to the Germans who built these tunnels as bunkers during WWII when they were preparing for an allied invasion in Norway.

Catching sleet and snowflakes

We had arranged for a small group Arctic Landscapes tour, and our guide was a lovely young and knowledgeable Polish woman named Joanna who was studying marine biology at the University of Tromso. We knew the weather here could be unpredictable so we were prepared for anything. And we got it. We saw sun, rain, hail, sleet, and snow all in one day!

Along the Esjfjord outside of Tromso

Joanna took us on an excursion to some of her favorite fjords and overlooks as we island-hopped all over the Tromso area. Our first stop was the Esjfjord where we savored some of the natural beauty and surroundings. We got to see strange tundra plants, almost cactus-like with tiny flowers you could easily miss. And many small houses in the valleys where hunters stay (usually for free) and hunt the ptarmigan, which is a small game bird.

Our Arctic Beach

The highlight of our day was lunch on the beach at Sommaroy Fjord. Beaches in the Arctic seem unlikely, but with clear green water and white “sand” (actually calcified crustaceans), the beaches looked like something in the tropics.

Ahhh, yummy homemade oat cookies on the beach

We collected shells and ate a lunch of sandwiches, oat cookies, and hot chocolate right there on the cold, windy beach in an area sheltered by granite boulders. We can’t describe how wonderful it was to be on a beach with sunlight shimmering on the gentle waves of soft green water and snow-covered peaks in the background. It was like the Caribbean meets the Alps!

Wooden church where seafarers prayed before
voyages (see model ship hanging from ceiling)

We continued a circular tour back to Tromso with a stop at a beautiful wooden church in a tiny hamlet. Joanna said the church was never open (she had never been inside), but today the custodian was working and allowed us to go in. The interior smelled of pine wood and a model ship hung from the rafters as a tribute to the area’s seafaring culture.

Arctic sheep

As we left the church, we saw a family of cute Arctic sheep.

Open Air Museum with homes from times gone by

And we visited a small open air museum where we wandered among the old wooden buildings, trying to imagine what it was like to live in this formidable climate years ago.

Herd of reindeer!

We also saw our first reindeer. Joanna stopped for us to take a close-up look at a herd of about ten reindeer napping alongside one of the fjords. Reindeer are bigger and “beefier” than the whitetail deer back home -- they also have a heavy pelt and big furry antlers. Magnificent creatures.  

Several moose watched our every move

Later, we spotted several moose and stepped out of the van to take a closer look. And, of special interest to Frank, we passed the place in one of the fjords where the massive German battleship “Tirpitz” was sunk by the Brits during WWII. There is no special marker where she went down, but locals  know where it happened.  All in all, this was a fabulous day in the Arctic!

More pics:

Typical Nordic church

Our tour group explores the Tromso countryside

Desolate Arctic landscape

Pioneer Frank explores the Arctic

Moody sky above the Arctic Circle

Arctic Annie

Greetings from the Arctic!